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Yes you are correct. If they are fine surface scratches then we would recommend Fill n' Finish UltraThin. Always use GluDry with any Fill n' Finish product. For more information, you can email info@gluboost.com Thanks.

yes!

No, not at all. Wet sanding with micromesh and then a dry rag and some plastic polish or Yorkshire grit with the lathe on high, will give you a great finish.

I only use blue if there are pours to fill or uneven surface to level out. Otherwise I would just use the orange label. Either way, I lightly sand with 600 after the glue finish is applied to remove any ridges from application. Once it’s smoothed, I turn the lathe on high and apply medium pressure with extra fine #0000 steel wool. This helps remove any heavy sanding scratches. Then I wet sand with the 9 grits of micromesh and polish with cotton tag and novus 2 polish. If I see any marks after that I use the 3 step buffing system. If I use the blue label I always make sure I sand and steel wool before switching to the orange label. Just be sure to wipe the blank down real good before applying the next coat, to remove any steel wool particles. If your applying it to wood, Be sure to apply some glue to the tube ends to seal it so moisture from wet micromesh sanding can’t wick in under your finish. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions. With a little practice you’ll get your process down.

Great. Congratulations!

Thanks for the comment, let me explain a bit.... I'm not sanding naked wood, but rather just smoothing out the finish. I always seal the end grain (tube ends) with Glu-Boost to seal the wood before applying the finish to the surface. The Red label works great and wicks in but Orange and Blue label will work, it just goes on thicker and doesn't wick in as well. I apply a couple coats. Be sure to let it cure before placing it on your bushings so you don't glue your blank to the bushings. This way water can't get in when I sand. Also, I only use just a couple drops of water to help keep the heat down so it doesn't melt the micromesh to the blank. Also, I don't apply a lot of pressure while wet sanding so I don't go through the finish. I hope this helps. Thanks!

Thanks 👍

Glad it was helpful!

yes

we have several dealers please send an email t info@gluboost.com with your country and we will assist you.

@@GearUpProducts thanks

Glad we could help!

So how’d your repair turn out?

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you. Glad we could assist.

Thanks

yes

That's great! Enjoy!

That's great! Thanks!

yes

yes

Flexibility. you can adjust the neck with the truss rod and keep the neck completely stable not have to worry about lack of flexibility for future truss rod adjustments. plus it is a super strong bond.

Thanks for the info. I already use GlueBoost as a glue and spot filler a lot. But I would probably use this method if I needed a quick finish on a small project. In this circumstance ( not wanting the pore filler to 'muddy' the wood of two contrasting woods) I have always just pore filled with the clear finish - takes longer but excellent results of clarity and compatibility. I don't think on the large projects I work on ( dining tables) that GluBoost would be cost effective as a pore filler.

Yes on very large areas perhaps not button small to mid size areas like small tops and guitars it's a great alternative. See here: ruclips.net/video/-YNF0O7Zjvc/видео.html

@@mainstay. The problem with using clear finish to fill pores is one of longevity. It works great, but most finishes are not inert -- they continue to shrink over time. Since the finish shrinks at a certain percentage, thinner areas will shrink less in real volume than thicker areas, such as the pores themselves. The upshot is that over time, the pores pucker and show. For some finishes it takes weeks or months, and for some years. However, inert pigment fillers, like silica, talc, and gypsum based ones, don't shrink as much. Crosslinked fillers, like polyester, epoxy, and CA (GluBoost) don't shrink at all. Thus, no puckering down the road. Still, I completely agree with you -- while it could be done, it might be cheaper to do large surfaces, like a conference table, with some more traditional methods. What GluBoost offers is a combination of stability and speed.

Ditto on this question for me with hairline cracks on a Squier Jaguar Modified Bass. These cracks are so narrow that wondering if the Fill with actually penetrate and fill it.

Protect the surrounding area with MasterShield